My plane landed at Ben Gurion airport very early in the morning last Tuesday, while it was still dark.  I took a sherut, a mini-bus, from the airport to Jerusalem .  The sherut is a lot cheaper than a cab—about $6 vs. $40—and more convenient than the bus.  It was very scenic driving from the airport to Jerusalem at dawn, just as it was starting to get light.

When you go from the airport to Jerusalem you literally “make aliyah.”  Aliyah means to go up, and Jerusalem is up in the Judean hills, well above the plains where the airport is.  As you travel the road to Jerusalem , you are reminded that this is a journey that has not always been so easy as a $6 mini-bus ride.  You pass the hulks of trucks that were left where they were destroyed during the war for the independence of Israel in 1947-48.  Those trucks give a silent reminder of the price the Jewish people have paid to return to Jerusalem …and that we should not take this remarkable privilege of returning to Zion lightly.

There is a special blessing to say when you approach Jerusalem and you haven’t seen it for a while, and I remembered to say the blessing, a blessing in which we thank God as “boneh Yerushalayim,” the builder of Jerusalem .  The first thing you see that’s really part of Jerusalem is a big cemetery that overlooks the road and the valley below…I decided to wait to say the blessing until I was looking at houses--signs of life, rather than a cemetery! J

I was sort of glad I took a sherut instead of a cab, because as the driver dropped the other passengers off I got a tour of Jerusalem…despite being quite tired, I appreciated seeing the city again.

I’ve been here about a week.  Most of my days have been taken up with learning at a special program for rabbis at the Hartman Institute.  We have about 100 rabbis from all over North America , all different denominations—Conservative, Orthodox, Reconstructionist, Reform—learning together.  It’s a great program.  The Hartman Institute is a leading “Jewish think tank” with world class scholars on the staff.  The founder, Rabbi David Hartman, an Orthodox rabbi from New York who studied under Soloveitchik and served a congregation in Montreal , is one of the preeminent Jewish philosophers of our time.  Another rabbi from our Pacific Northwest Region of United Synagogue is here, Rabbi Dov Gartenburg from Seattle , as are a number of rabbis from Toronto .

The program has been focused on prayer.  We’ve been studying prayer for a variety of perspectives—the Torah, the Talmud, Chasidic texts, philosophers.  Even though prayer is a particular interest of mine, and I’ve studied a lot on my own, I’m still learning new things…there’s always more to learn, and it’s great to learn together with colleagues.  Even when we study a text I’m already familiar with, the discussion goes in directions I hadn’t thought of before.

In the evenings we often have speakers.  Last night the American ambassador to Israel , Daniel Kurtzer, spoke.  He gave a very articulate (and diplomatic) talk about the roadmap and the peace process.  He seems to be optimistic—he thinks most Palestinians want a normal life.  His concern seemed to be whether Abu Mazen will be a strong enough leader to do things necessary to bring peace—especially control Hamas, Islamic Jahad, etc.  Most Israelis I talk to are “cautiously optimistic.”  They hope the cease fire will turn into peace, but they are also very aware that it won’t take much to destroy it.

Tomorrow we are going on a trip to Mitzpe Ramon to attend a graduation ceremony for IDF officers—it should be a fascinating trip.

I’m staying with some friends who have an apartment in the German Colony, a neighborhood popular with “Anglos,” the local term for people who are native English speakers.  The main street, Emek Refaim, is full of life.  The cafes and restaurants are full at night.  People seem to be living a very normal life.  Of course there are reminders that we are in Israel .  Every café has a security guard.  If you are a guy, he’ll wave a metal detector in your direction and inquire “neshek (weapon)?”  I don’t think they care if you have one, they just want to know.  Interestingly, despite all the women who serve in the IDF, they don’t ask women if they are carrying a weapon.  I was out at Masaryk, a hip little café with some friends from California last night, and it’s kind of fun to think that while sipping a cappuccino and eating a “chocolate volcano,” we are doing our patriotic duty and helping the Israeli economy.  It’s never been so much fun to do a good deed!

For Shabbat, I davened Friday night at Yakar, which is primarily an institution for adult education, but they also have a minyan on Shabbat—it’s part of the “hip Orthodox” scene in Jerusalem.  They have a mechitza, but they also had 200 people, men and women, singing a Carlebach service, everyone singing quite loudly…occasionally with some beautiful harmony.  It’s a great experience, the ruach (spirit) in the room is amazing.  Shabbat morning I went to another “hip Orthodox – Carlebach style” minyan, one called Shira Chadasha.  Shira Chadasha was started by Tova Hartman Halbertal, the daughter of David Hartman.  Shira Chadasha is trying to break new ground in the Orthodox world—women read from the Torah (in the regular service, for men) and lead parts of the service (Pesukei d’Zimra and the Torah service).  Women don’t lead the other parts of the service for reasons relating to their interpretation of the halacha (Jewish law).  They have a mechitza, but it’s a sheet of gauze and semi-transparent.  There was a recent article in Tradition magazine saying women can do these things—on the one hand, I sometimes feel like saying, “what’s the big deal?”—they are using halachic reasoning similar to what the Conservative movement said 50 years ago.  On the other hand, it’s nice to see parts of the Orthodox world moving in a more liberal direction, when most seem be getting stricter.

Sunday night I went to a reception at the Fuchsberg Center , Conservative Judaism’s center in Jerusalem .  They are completing a major expansion, which will allow them to house a few hundred USY’ers on trips to Israel .  There are a LOT more USY kids coming this year than last year.  The Conservative Yeshiva is doing well, with probably about 60 students this coming year; they are building additional classroom space as they are anticipating continued growth in the program.

All in all, it’s wonderful to be back here in Israel, and I encourage all of you to show your support for Israel in that most tangible of ways—with your presence, which helps not just the economy (which, God knows, needs help), but also the spirit.  Israelis really appreciate knowing that Diaspora Jews support them in this time of need.

B’virkat Shalom (with blessings for peace),

Rabbi Leff